A January Weekend in Norfolk
January weekends in Britain are a coin toss between miserable wind and rain or, the slightly rarer option, glorious sunshine. We were lucky enough to land on the latter as we enjoyed a wonderful weekend in Norfolk full of birdwatching, long walks and spectacular sunsets. With Arran up in Norfolk for BBC Winterwatch, Julie took the two hour train ride from King’s Cross to King’s Lynn to join him for the weekend.
Whilst it was bitterly cold, we could not have asked for better weather. Every morning we awoke to dense fog which coated the trees in a layer of glittering frost. The sky was a glassy blue with wispy white clouds that changed to mauve, powdery pink and lavender at dusk.
On Saturday, after a much needed lie in, we ventured to the small village of Snettisham. We passed a charming old bookshop with a window display dedicated to the Antarctic expeditions of Shackleton & Scott, a fitting display for a chilly January day.
Our first stop involved a hearty brunch at The Old Store, a micro-bakery and coffee shop serving all things delicious. One smashed avocado and poached egg toast and a sausage sandwich later we took a forty minute drive to Blakeney Point. We were specifically looking for Blakeney’s grey seal colony but struggled finding a route down to the shoreline. If you’re there to see seals, your best bet is to hop on a boat tour from Morston Quay. Nevertheless, the walk across Blakeney Nature Reserve and Cley Marshes was one of the most magical experiences, possibly the most beautiful nature packed walk we have ever been on.
We began our walk at three o’clock, the perfect time to see golden hour, dusk and sunset. Sunset pools glistened as little egrets took flight; a lone curlew was well camouflaged in the Marram grass; pink-footed geese flew in droves overhead; brent geese grazed on the saltmarshes and candyfloss skies cast a pastel hue over the charming Cley Windmill.
We were so happy that we decided to have that lie in as it meant we began our walk at a time of day when dusty dusk colours glazed the landscape in brilliant hues. As we set off, the sun was beginning to set, and the glow cast over the saltmarshes and mudflats was magnificent.
We cannot get enough of geese. They mate for life, they fly in v-formation, and they honk, what’s not to love? Thus, the pink-footed and brent geese at Blakeney added to the appeal of an already breathtaking landscape.
We absolutely loved the Cley Windmill. You can actually stay in the windmill, sleeping in the wheel room or wheat chamber, and this unique guesthouse is one we wouldn’t mind experiencing.
Situated in the small village of Cley next the Sea, the eighteenth-century windmill speaks to the village’s past as an important trading port in the Middle Ages. The marshland it watches over was once a haunt for smugglers. Now this landscape is home to waders, migrating wildfowl and other coastal wildlife.
Our dinner that evening was absolutely sublime. Socius in Burnham Market offers an ever changing menu of seasonal, locally sourced dishes that are designed to be shared. We chose a number of small plates, each one equally delicious. A cheeseboard with homemade malt loaf and fig jam concluded one of the best meals we have ever eaten.
On Sunday we returned to The Old Store for another great brunch. In the afternoon we took a buggy across the frozen mud terrain of Wild Ken Hill, passing a toll booth of brown cows on our way. That evening we witnessed a spectacular sunset over Snettisham Beach. Sadly, we were unable to capture the flocks of oystercatchers huddled by the shoreline, but their striking tangerine beaks and long limbs against their black and white plumage topped off a beautiful evening.
Norfolk, we’ll be back.