Alpbach and Après Ski: A Week in the Austrian Alps

At the end of February, we spent a week with Arran’s family skiing, Wiener schnitzel-ing, heiße Schokolade-ing and spa-ing in one of the prettiest Tyrolean villages: Alpbach.

On Julie’s birthday, we flew to Innsbruck and hopped in our transfer, enjoying the scenery during the hour-long drive to the idyllic village set within the Kitzbühel Alps. Alpbach has won numerous accolades as one of the most beautiful European villages. In summer months, green pastures are flooded with wildflowers, cows with their distinctive bells graze in the fields and window boxes full of pink geraniums adorn the exterior of traditional, wooden buildings. The village in winter, however, is just as captivating. Pristine snow covers rooftops and evening sun casts amber shadows on the snow-capped mountaintops, turning the village into a fairytale winter wonderland. Every morning we’d hear the bells of St. Oswald Parish Church chime, and from our balcony we could see its picturesque mint-green spire and white and coral steeple standing splendidly against a backdrop of mountains.

We stayed in the wonderful Der Böglerhof, a fabulous family-run establishment with the most sublime pure nature spa. When we arrived, we were greeted with a complimentary glass of fizz and had time to settle in before heading to collect our skis, boots, and book onto some lessons. We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the spa, followed by our first 5-course gourmet evening meal.

Whilst Arran has been skiing many times, this was Julie’s first experience and so we had several private lessons during the first two days to allow Julie to gain her ski legs. They went well and by the end of the week she was skiing long runs from the highest point in Alpbachtal: the Hornbahn 2000. After a morning on the slopes, it was après-ski time and we’d stop for hot chocolates mit Sahne (of course), and other delicious calorific treats!

After we had finished skiing for the day we’d return to our hotel, ready for an afternoon of pure relaxation in the nature spa. There was no better feeling than removing one’s ski boots after a day on the slopes and getting into the pool with the spectacular view of snow-capped mountains. At dusk this was particularly dreamy. The sun struck the peaks, turning the snow gold, and you could watch the snow groomers traverse down the mountain, preparing the slopes for the following day. We’d sit with herbal teas around the fire pit, admiring the pristine views, then warm up in the sauna or take a dip in the heated outdoor pool. If we were feel brave, we’d brace submerging ourselves in the natural lake, which was around 5°c. After several hours of pure relaxation, we would enjoy a 5-course meal with delicious salads, soups, cheese, and traditional Austrian dishes, including sweet treats like Kaiserschmarrn.

On our third day, thick, low cloud made the visibility poor, so several of us decided to stay off the slopes and do one of the hikes around the village. We did a two-hour circular walk, the forest trail A3, passing a babbling brook, grazing goats, cows sheltering in their winter enclosures and a tiny seventeenth century wooden chapel know as the Thierberg Chapel, thought to have been built as a symbolic protection against floods. The mountain views in the fog were quite ethereal and as you looked out over Alpbach you got a real feel for how important tradition, authenticity, customs, and craftmanship are to the inhabitants of this quaint mountain village, whose rich tradition stems from its historical geographic seclusion; the connecting road to the valley has only existed since 1926.

The original Alpbach architectural style, characterised by wood cladding and steeped roofs, is still preserved today as precise guidelines for new buildings have been in place since 1953. The walking route took us through several farms, of which there are over 100 in the village. There are over 20 hereditary farms in Alpbach, known as Erbhof, which are awarded to families who have owned and managed a farm for at least 200 hundred years. Three of these Erbhof are over 400 years old. The village’s historic traditions remain alive today, making it one of the most picturesque and charming places to visit.

Whilst the weather had improved by the following day, Julie took a day off skiing and met up with Arran and his family for lunch at the Böglalm, a rustic hut serving traditional Tyrolean food. It is accessible for both skiers and hikers from the slope of the Pöglbahn’s mittelstation. To get to the middle station you jump on a gondola from Inneralpbach. When the sun is shining, the Böglalm’s outdoor terrace provides magnificent views whilst you enjoy dishes like goulash, schnitzel and currywurst. If the weather is bad, sitting inside would be equally charming as the interior is bedecked with wood with cosy nooks and various nostalgic ephemera adorning the walls. Note, however, that the Böglalm only accepts cash payments.

One of the most humorous moments of the trip came after lunch at the Böglalm when Arran’s dad misplaced his skis, and inadvertently skied down in someone else’s, stumbling several times before reaching the bottom. Luckily, no harm was done and a quick visit to the rental shop sorted him out with new skies that properly fitted. Funnily enough, when we were returning our skis and boots at the end of the week, the person who ended up using Arran’s dad’s original skis had absolutely no idea they were not his, remarkable really.

After lunch, Arran and Julie headed up the Pöglbahn to admire the panoramic views of snowy mountains against icy blue skies before enjoying hot chocolates at Dauerstoa Alm. We then headed back down the mountain, just in time to enjoy an afternoon snack in the Bögler’s Bar before a pre-dinner relaxation in the spa.

The last two days were spent on the slopes. The low cloud had returned on one of these afternoons and traversing the slopes from the Hornbahn 2000 was an interesting challenge but one we managed. For Julie’s first ski trip it was a fabulous introduction to the sport and one in which the appeal was clear to see, particularly as frothy hot chocolates with lashings of whipped cream and spectacular, unspoilt views were enjoyed every day.